EATS & DRINKS

By Case Dighero | Photos by Meredith Mashburn

The Stonebreaker

2231 W. Markham Road, Fayetteville | (479) 350-1000 |
www.stonebreakerhotel.com/the-restaurant

The Stonebreaker restaurant is bustling with activity. And with the very first taste, I’m filled with unadulterated exhilaration. Fayetteville’s newest culinary destination is located on Markham Hill, attached to a 78-room hotel with a vibe and feeling that toes the line between modern design and nostalgic comfort. The experiences at The Stonebreaker, whether hospitality, food or lodging, are centered around taking time to enjoy the world at hand — and I’m a fan of any place that allows me more time to enjoy life.

Arkansas chef Tyler Rogers helms the beautifully designed and ultra-equipped kitchen at the restaurant. Locals will recognize him from his tenure at Hail Fellow Well Met in Johnson, but his pedigree in the business extends to time spent with famed chefs Grant Achatz in Chicago and Thomas Keller in Northern California. His Magnolia, Arkansas, roots are evident in his cooking, but his nuanced, slow-hand style is all his own, and he’s undeniably one of the most exciting chefs working in the Natural State today.

The restaurant is chock-full of places to land — porches, parlors, alongside public and member bars and dining rooms — again, encouraging one to take time to explore the architectural and hospitality revelations seemingly around every corner. The main bar downstairs is comfortable but perfectly suitable for suits, ties and pearls, and it features a solid wine list, plenty of scotch, bourbon, whiskey and a delicious slew of aperitifs. The cocktail menu houses both old style and forward drinking paradigms. A couple of my preferences are the Sunday Morning ($14), devised with dark rum, blackberry syrup, lemon, lime, orgeat and egg white; and the Chupacabra ($14), jalapeno-infused tequila, grapefruit juice, lime, Cointreau and agave.

The menu at The Stonebreaker is certainly chef Rogers’ glimpse at global cuisine through the lens of his Arkansas roots. There are brilliant moments of Italian, Indian and Asian cuisine sculpted into an amalgamation of techniques from his travels. Food lovers will delight, but even the most monochromatic diners will feel comfort and solace in things familiar. As mentioned, my first bite of the Sheep’s Milk Pimento ($14.25) nearly sent me over the edge — a brilliant taste of whipped sheep’s milk and pimento, onion preserve and toasty sourdough. It’s the perfect shareable plate and introduction to Rogers’ vision.

Shrimp Binchotan

I also adore the warm Kimchi Hotwater Cornbread ($14.75), plated with thinly sliced Bansley’s ham and apple butter. And the grilled Shrimp Binchotan ($21.50), served over butternut squash mole, crispy Brussels sprout leaves, orange and coriander.

We roll into the Large Plates section of the menu wanting more, and The Stonebreaker delivers exquisitely. For example, the Scallop Ribolitta ($31.75) is seared perfectly and delivered with winter vegetables, white beans, aromatics and the lovely crunch of whisper-thin buttered toast. Or the Braised Lamb ($38.50), made with chef’s favorite blackberry wojapi, whipped celeriac and blackened parsnips. Still, one of my favorite things on the menu is the house-ground StoneBurger ($18.75), stratified with homemade pickles, American cheese and aioli on a potato roll. I hear another diner exclaim, “This is the best burger I’ve ever had.”

Everything on the dessert menu is a winner, including the Beetroot Cake ($14.25) but especially the S’more ($13.25), made with graham cracker ice cream, cocoa nibs, homemade marshmallow, smoked salt and a thin chocolate lace cookie.

Undoubtedly, Fayetteville’s newest culinary destination is Arkansas through and through, but it won’t be long until the rest of the country comes calling.